How To Make a Dreamcatcher

Dreamcatchers are part of the art practices and culture of Native Americans, who are also known as Indians. For them, dreamcatchers have both a spiritual and practical meaning and are therefore regarded as a powerful amulet. I was recently captivated by Shamanism and Native American culture and, in the process, I also became interested in dreamcatchers. I would like to share my knowledge on this subject with you and through it bring the beauty of Native American culture a bit closer to you.

Dreamcatcher Creation Myth

Of all the Native American tribes, the dreamcatcher has best assimilated itself among the Lakota and Ojibwe peoples. This primarily has to do with the mythology of these tribes in which the role of the dreamcatcher is emphasized. A well-known myth regarding the creation of this spiritual item goes like this: 

A long, long time ago, at the beginning of time, a Lakota tribe leader climbed to the top of a mountain and brought with him a hoop made of willow branches which he had carefully adorned with objects which were meaningful to him - horse hair, beads, feathers and other small offerings. On this mountain, he had a vision. In it appeared the god Iktomi, a trickster-god who is also the creator of the world; he who weaves the web of life as he has the shape of a spider. This spider-like deity addressed the leader in a sacred language and, as he spoke, took his willow hoop and started weaving his web inside it. While Iktomi worked, he spoke of the cycle of life which is a cycle in the real sense of the word; man is born, grows from a baby to a child, from a child to an adult and then grows into old age during which his loved ones take care of him as if he were a newborn again. Thus the cycle of life continues. But, Iktomi warned the wise leader that, regardless of a person's age, both good and bad forces can influence him. Good forces lead to good things, whereas bad forces lead to bad things. Both types of forces can change the natural course of events. Iktomi then finished weaving his web and gave the willow hoop back to the Lakota leader with the following words: "This web is a perfect circle with a hole in the center. Use it to help your people to properly use their ideas, dreams and visions and thus achieve their goals. If you believe in the Great Spirit, this web will filter good ideas, while the bad ones will remain trapped inside it and will not be able to pass through". The leader conveyed this vision and the wise words that were held within it to his people. Since then, the dreamcatcher protects the bed and mind of every person so that only good ideas, good visions and good dreams may reach him. 

The Role of the Dreamcatcher 

It is obvious from the above mentioned story that the dreamcatcher does exactly what its name implies. When hung above a bed, it filters good dreams, ideas and visions and traps the bad ones which are burnt by the first rays of the morning Sun. It is believed that good dreams pass through the hole in the center of the web and then slide down the feathers (which usually adorn the bottom of the dreamcatcher) all the way to the dreamer. The beads that are sometimes woven into the web symbolize spiders. Some dreamcatchers are also decorated by some sort of crystal, or mineral which symbolizes the Great Spirit, or rather the Creator in which Native Americans believe. This is because there is only one creative force according to the worldview of these peoples. This is why only one such crystal can be added to a dreamcatcher.

Some North American Indian tribes have taken a different stance on this subject and believe that the hole in the middle of the dreamcatcher is there to allow bad dreams to get out, while the web catches good dreams which then pass through it, down the feathers and into the dreamer.

In any case, both belief systems are based on the conviction that the night air is filled with good and bad dreams which fly around in search of dreamers they can visit.

Materials, Shapes and Colors

The traditional materials used for making the hoop of the dreamcatcher are willow branches (usually those of a red willow) or soaked grapevine (it has to be soaked to be flexible!). This is conditioned by the flexibility of these materials because the material has to be flexible enough so it doesn't break during the making of the hoop. 

The hoop is sometimes wrapped in suede leather whereas the web is woven out of sinew or horse/stag hair. The latter materials are slightly harder to come across nowadays so adequate substitutes are used for making the web such as thread, string, wool and similar materials.

The beads that adorn the web are usually made of wood or glass. Tradition insists that the pearls that decorate the actual hoop (if there are any at all) be blue.

Also, some dreamcatchers don't have a hole in the middle. This is usually conditioned by the beliefs of the tribe in which the dreamcatcher is made. You have seen that the beliefs regarding the role of this hole are divided. Now, some tribes believe that such a hole doesn't even have to exist because good dreams will find their way to the dreamer no matter what, while bad dreams will always be caught in the web. The absence of a hole only means that it won't be possible for them to escape once captured.

The number of feathers used is traditionally seven, but this detail has somehow been forgotten with time. If the dreamcatcher was hung above a child's bed or crib, it would often have a feather in the middle of the circle as a symbol of the element of air and its importance for human beings. An owl feather was used for girls (as a symbol of wisdom), while an eagle feather was used for boys (as a symbol of courage).

The size of the dreamcatcher depends on the individual because, according to tradition, the hoop shouldn't be bigger than an adult's palm. But this "rule" has also been lost in time so dreamcatchers are made in all shapes and sizes nowadays.

The most common dreamcatcher
weaving pattern/stitch

Today, they are also made of all sorts of materials. The hoop can be made of almost any type of wood, or metal (some even by pre-made metal hoops). Some decide not to wrap leather around the hoop, bur use wool, or some other material instead, while some choose not to cover the hoop altogether. Animal hair or sinew are no longer needed to make the web. As I have mentioned, string or wool of any color are good substitutes. But you can be creative and think of even more alternatives. The number of feathers used is also not strictly specified, as is the case with beads and crystals that adorn the web. The materials and colors of the beads also vary and their number depends on the individual's taste. So don't be afraid to work according to your creative instincts. Most rules have long been forgotten. But, you can decide to incorporate as many traditional elements are you can into your dreamcatcher simply out of respect for tradition. 

Essentially, there is no such thing as a good or bad dreamcatcher. Their shapes, sizes, colors and stitching vary from tribe to tribe and even from person to person. Some tribes make only circular hoops, while some make tear-shaped dreamcatchers. Some will leave a hole, while others will weave the web fully. Some tribes use the stitching that I will demonstrate in this post, while others try to imitate a spider web more veraciously.

Let your imagination flow freely! :)

How To Make a Dreamcatcher

To make your own dreamcatcher, you will need the following materials:

• materials for the hoop (willow branches/grapevine/and wooden or metal hoop)
• materials for wrapping the hoop (suede leather/wool/thread)
• materials for the web (animal hair/sinew/thread/wool)
• decorations (feathers, beads, crystals...)
• scissors
• a needle

I made my dreamcatcher out of willow branches, brown suede leather cords, white thread, wooden beads and pheasant feathers. This is why I will say "willow" for the hoop, "thread" for the web and so on in the following instructions. But don't let that confuse you! Feel free to work with the materials of your choosing and simply follow the instructions modifying them to the materials that you have.

I made four dreamcatchers - a large one which is 15cm in diameter and three small ones each about 8cm in diameter. The leather cords I used were 2mm wide. I used 2.8m of this cord to completely wrap the large hoop and 1.4m to wrap each small hoop. If you are using thread or wool that is somewhat thinner than this 2mm wide cord, of course you will need more of it. So I recommend you have a surplus of materials at hand just in case. :)

1. Make the Hoop

(skip this step if you are using a readymade wooden/metal hoop)

Picture 1: the large willow hoop

Picture 2

Take one willow branch and bend it to form a circle of your desired diameter. In order for the branch to keep this circular form, you can spirally wrap one end around the other a few times. I decided to tie these two ends using a thinner willow branch with which I tied two knots where the ends overlap. Feel free to use any system that works for you. The main thing is that the ends remain connected and that the hoop doesn't unwind. 

2. Wrap the Hoop

Using your leather cord, tie a knot where the two hoop ends overlap (as in picture 3).

Continue wrapping the cord around the whole hoop taking care not to leave any gaps (picture 4).

Picture 3: a knot tied where the hoop ends
overlap

Picture 4: a fully-wrapped hoop

Picture 5: the loop at the top of the hoop

When you have finished wrapping the hoop and have returned to the initial knot, make a loop which you will later use to hand your dreamcatcher by (picture 5). Cut off any excess cord so it doesn't get in the way while you're weaving the web. You can make the hoop any way you like. If you don't have any ideas, I recommend this knot because it is fairly easy and tight.

Note: some prefer to make the loop even before tying the first knot on the hoop. You can do this if you find it easier. It's completely up to you.

3. Make the Web

First thread your needle (picture 6).

Note: don't thread the needle as if you were about to start sewing (that is by leaving two ends of the thread hanging and tying them together at the bottom). Instead, just tie a double knot at the eye of the needle and let the largest part of the thread just hang. Try not to have too much thread because this will just make it harder for you to weave the web.

Tie a double knot next to the loop which you made at the top of your dreamcatcher (picture 7).

Picture 6: how to thread the needle

Picture 7: a knot tied next to the loop

The stitching used to weave the web of your dreamcatcher is always the same, so once you get it, everything will go smoothly.

Stitch the first circle of the web

Note: the following instructions only explain how to make the actual web without and decorations. For instructions on how to add decorations (beads and feathers), have a look at the advice at the end of this post. 

1. Pull the thread behind and over the hoop (pictures 8 and 9). You have just created a "hole".
2. Pull the needle through the "hole" you just made (pictures 10 and 11).
3. Pull the thread until it's straight. Just take care not to pull it too tight so the hoop bends. You want the hoop to keep its shape. You have now made your first "stitch".
4. Continue repeating steps 1-3 always leaving the same space between knots (the distance depends on your preferences). Keep in mind that it will be easier for you to weave the web if you leave more space between knots (picture 12).
5. When you come close to your first knot (which was tied next to the loop) and start tying your last knot, leave at most half the space you did between the previous knots (pictures 13 and 14). For example, if the typical distance between knots was 4cm, then do not leave more than 2cm between your first and last knot.

Picture 9

Picture 8: thread pulled behind and over the hoop

Picture 10: the needle pulled through the "hole" you made

Picture 11

Picture 12

Picture 13: the finished "first circle" of the web
(notice the small distance between the first and last knot)

Picture 14

Stitch the other circles of the web

In order for you to make the second and all subsequent circles of the web, follow these instructions:

6. Repeat steps 1-3, but instead of pulling the needle behind the hoop, pull it through the first "stitch" of your first circle (pictures 14 and 15). Take care to place your knots in the middle of each stitch and that the new stitch is nice and tight.

Note: as you start making new stitches i.e. tightening new knots, you will notice that the stitches on which you tie your new knots will start to bend slightly towards the center of the hoop and will form a slightly rhomboid shape.

7. Repeat step 6 until you get to the middle of the hoop where you will leave a hole. When you come to your last stitch (which will be at the bottom part of your dreamcatcher), just tie a double knot to secure the construction.

Picture 15: pulling the needle through the first "stitch" of the first circle

And with this, your dreamcatcher is finished!

Advice:

Picture 16

If (or rather when) you run out of thread, tie a double knot where you stopped. Rethread your needle according to these instructions. Then tie a double knot with this new thread right behind (or rather next to) the last knot you made and simply continue following the instructions.

In order to add a bead to a knot, simply pull your thread through the bead and continue normally with the stitch as described in steps 1-3.

If you want to add a feather somewhere, you can pull the thread and needle through the feather itself, or rather through the hollow part of the feather also knows as the calamus, or quill (picture 16). Then tie a double knot just to secure it. If all else fails, you can always just tie one or two normal knots around the feather(s). But, the aforementioned method is much better in my opinion because it is more effective and also aesthetically more pleasing.

In case my instructions weren't clear enough, you can have a look at this web site where the diagrams are really wonderful and everything is described step by step (although the instructions at the end are slightly different than mine).

Sweet dreams! :D

How To Make and Use a Broom

What are the first things that come to mind when you say "witch"? I'm sure that black cats, cauldrons and brooms will me somewhere at the top of this list. Although black cats aren't really part of the witch's or pagan's ritual toolkit, the cauldron and broom are (even though they aren't essential).

I have been trying to get my hands on the necessary materials to make my own broom for quite some time now and I have finally succeeded! I decided to document the making process and share it with you in hopes of making your jobs a little bit easier and giving you some tips so you don't repeat my mistakes.

Before I go on to describing the whole process of making a broom, I would like to turn to its uses in witchcraft and Paganism.

Ritual Broom Uses

I talked about the history and the various uses of brooms in great depth in a previous post entitled "Broomsticks (Can Witches Really Fly?)". But let us just do a quick recap. :)

Think about what you use a broom for in everyday life...for cleaning, right? The broom's function remains unchanged in the ritual circle, except that it doesn't clean physical filth in it, but rather energetic filth (although it can also help you clean the circle physically; nobody's stopping you from using it to get some leaves or dust out of the way so you can have a more pleasant working environment). In effect, it removes all negative energy so that the space can be fit for the ritual and so the practitioners can work undisturbed. It is important to clean the ritual circle in any way before enacting a ritual because it is believed that every space aggregates the energy of the people passing through it/living in it. Everybody carries with them some sort of energy which is unwanted in rituals. This is why the ritual circle is always cleansed beforehand, as are all the participants before entering it. Some cleanse the circle using visualizations, others walk on the circle's perimeter holding a wand/athamé and some with a broom. The choice is yours. Since the primary function of the witch's/pagan's broom is not to physically clean the space, but to energetically purify it, the bristles don't even have to touch the ground. When an individual cleanses the circle using a broom, he/she walks around the perimeter of the circle deosil (clockwise) and visualizes the broom creating a border inside which negative energy no longer exists and through which any sort of negativity can no longer pass. This border symbolizes purity and it is because of this that it is usually seen as a white/light blue line which defines the edge of the ritual circle. 

When this sort of border is envisioned, then we say that the ritual circle is being opened, or rather drawn. The opening of the circle and its cleansing are two different actions. The opening of the circle is actually a longer process that includes the drawing (using one's finger/athamé/wand/broom), cleansing, visualization of the protection of the circle and so on (for more details, see the following posts: "Ritual Form", "The Opening Ritual"). When the circle is being drawn using a broom, then the broom is actually a substitute for another ritual tool  i.e. the athamé or wand with which this part of the ritual is usually done.

Since the broom purifies, it also protects. This is the background for an old tradition according to which a broom placed over the main door of the house, above a window, underneath the bed or on the door itself protects and purifies the household. You may also conclude that the broom also protects during rituals.

A more occasional use for the broom can be found in Handfastings i.e. Pagan weddings. During these rituals, the couple jumps over a broom holding hands in order to express their unity but also to be cleansed in a way. According to some beliefs, this practice also guarantees the couple a happy marriage and fertility. 

Since we're on the topic of fertility, it is important to note another important aspect of the broom. The broom is made of two basic parts: the hands and the bristles. The handle resembles the phallus for obvious reasons and the bristles represent the vulva. While making a broom, the handle is actually pushed into the bristles and the two are tied together in a certain way. Basically, the broom holds within its very core a strong symbolism of sexual intercourse and ultimately of fertility. From the Pagan perspective, the broom has a secondary symbolism as well. The handle represents the phallus, but also the God, whereas the bristles represent the female sex organ and through it the Goddess. The God and Goddess are therefore united in this ritual tool.

By all means, every aspect of fertility is celebrated in Paganism, be it human fertility, the fertility of the land, animals, ideas and so on. It is believed that fertility was celebrated in ancient times even among the "original Pagans"; the pagani, or rather the farmers, the villagers (without any negative connotations). They depended on the fertility of their cattle and fields and learnt to appreciate and worship this in time. It is probably from this mindset the the practice of carrying out fertility rituals in fields came to be. These rituals were often performed by women and consisted of dances on brooms, or other phallic objects (pitchforks, hobby-horses etc.). In these dances, women "rode" these objects thus imitating sex. It is obvious that these dancers endeavored to transfer fertility to the land through these quas-isexual acts and aid the land in yielding crops.

This is just some basic information which may help you in understanding the ritual purpose of brooms. You can read much more on the subject here. And now I think it's time we went on to what I haven't yet explained:

How To Make a Broom

You will need the following materials:

• one thicker and longer branch for the handle (my branch is about 2 fingers thick and about armpit-height, but the ration depends on you)
• a larger amount of willow branches/rope
• a larger amount of birch branches (or some other material that you plan to use for the bristles)

You can read more details about the materials a few paragraphs below.
Note: the number of willow branches depends on how well you want to tie your bristles to the handle but also on how skilled you are with this material. The amount of birch branches depends on how "rich" you want your broom to be.

You will need the following tools:

• a saw
• a knife/or a sharp scalpel
• sandpaper (or some sort of electric sander)
• protection goggles
• shears
• gardening gloves

I recommend that you always wear your protection goggles and gardening gloves so you avoid any injury (especially if you're working with electric tools). You will find the shears useful when the saw gets a bit too clumsy.

Step 1 - Choosing the Material

First of all, it is necessary to decide which material to use for which part of the broom. Witches' brooms are typically made completely of wood without any metal or unnatural materials (e.g. plastic). Rope can also be used as a helping tool while making the broom, or for tying it if it is made of a natural material.

The handle of the broom is usually made of a "male" wood since it symbolizes the phallus. The traditional trees used for this part of the broom include ash, hazel and oak (in this order). Although, any "male" tree will suffice. By "male", I am not referring to the tree's sex, obviously. A "male" tree would just be any tree that is very strong, durable and inflexible.

The bristles are usually made of a "female" tree, by contrast. These types of trees are usually more sensitive, delicate and flexible than "male" trees. The most traditional tree in this case is birch, although any sort of brushwood, or flexible branches and even straw will do the trick. 

These two elements have to be tied together in some way. This is what fresh willow branches are used for. Because they are so flexible and rubber-like, they really serve their purpose. An alternative option is always natural rope (that is to say, uncolored, made of natural materials). I can't emphasize enough that the willow branches have to be freshly gathered because they dry up in a matter of days and then become brittle as they lose their flexibility. Once they become inflexible, it's impossible to bend them or tie anything with them. Only while they are fresh do they have the necessary suppleness.

Opposite to this "rule" regarding the willow branches, your birch branches should be dry and the stick you choose for the handle absolutely has to be dry in order for you to be able to shape it. Namely, the handle has to be stripped of all its bark, one end of it is usually sharpened or at least narrowed (the side which goes into the bristles) and the other end is usually rounded to resemble a phallus. This kind of molding is very difficult if the wood is still damp. The bristles are left with the bark on since they are thin enough as it is, but the bark also protects them.

I decided to use the traditional materials: ash for the handle, birch for the bristles and willow for tying them together. It is said that this is a great combination because ash protects, birch cleanses and willow is sacred to the Goddess. Every tree has its own symbolism, especially in Celtic tradition and mythology. I recommend you have a look at this page for more information on these trees, as well as many other. :)

Once you have decided on the materials you want to use, it's time you go find them in nature! :D

Step 2 - Finding the Material

It is ideal if the witch/Pagan can make their own ritual tools but also gather the necessary materials for them. This is impossible or beyond our capabilities in some cases, but I think it is possible in this case. So it is recommended that practitioners go for a nice nature walk and find the materials themselves. Since I live in a climate where there is no birch or ash to be seen, a dear friend of mine got me these materials and gave them to me. It was up to me to transport this material from one side of the country to the other and lovingly shape it. Nobody is stopping you from doing the same, but it is traditional to get and so as much as you can yourself. But let us get back to the main topic.

Once you have gone into nature and found your materials, you have to take them. But before you do, you should take care to thank the tree/bush from which you are taking them. Pagans try to live in harmony with the earth and thus do not behave aggressively towards it. We also try not to take the earths' gifts for granted. This is precisely why we express respect and gratitude towards it in our everyday lives, and especially when it shares its bounty with us like this. In case you found an already dried up, fallen branch somewhere on the earth, simply thank the land that gave you this gift. If you find that you have to cut some branches, then politely thank the plant you are taking them from and you can also leave it a small offering/gift (a small crystal, flowers, a garland etc.). This way, you perform a sort of ritual in nature and already begin making your broom by only thinking about it and infusing the whole process with your intentions and love.

Step 3 - Making Your Broom

When you have gathered/sawed/chopped off the branches which you need, the next step is to shape this material so it will be suitable for binding together into a broom. As I previously mentioned, I used an ash branch for the handle, birch branches for the bristles and willow branches instead of rope. This is why I will sometimes use "ash" as a synonym for "handle", or "birch" as a synonym for "bristles" and so on so please don't let this confuse you. Lets get started then!

1. Remove all the leaves and offshoots

All the branches you find will, of course, have many leaves and offshoots on them. It is necessary to remove all of these unnecessary parts to make the branches as smooth as possible. Oh, and it's worth noting that you should do this for the birch, willow and ash branches. 

Picture 2: willow branches after cleaning

Picture 1: willow branches before cleaning

Picture 3: cleaned birch branches

2. Remove the bark from the handle

I have already emphasized that the branch you choose for you handle should be completely smooth. So when you have removed all the leaves and offshoots from it, you should remove the bark. If the branch is already fully dry, the bark will start to fall of by itself but even if it hasn't completely fallen off, you can very easily scrape it off yourself just using your hands or a sharp object if you prefer this. You will then be left with a bare piece of wood which just needs a few more touch-ups before it is completely smooth. I "polished" my ash branch using sand paper and a small electric sander. It's necessary to sand the whole branch until it looks like the one in picture 5 (picture no. 4 shows a branch without the bark, but before sanding. You can see what an ash branch looks like with its bark here).

Picture 4: a branch without the bark, but
before sanding

Picture 5: the fully polished branch (notice
the part where the offshoot was; it is necessary
to be very careful around these parts
especially if you are working with an electric
sander because they can do damage to the sander,
plus the wood can fly off towards you.
This is why you should wear protective
goggles).

3. Shape the handle

Although you have polished the handle nicely, you still have to shape it. In order for it to be more easily inserted between the bristles (but also in order for ti to stay in place), you should now sharped/narrow one end of the branch using a knife or scalpel. Simply cut off  bit by bit of the end until you notice that it has significantly gotten thinner in comparison to the rest of the branch and then finish it off with a bit of sanding so it can look nice and smooth.

Picture 6: the branch before I shaped it

Picture 7: the branch after I shaped it (notice
it getting narrower at the bottom)

It would also be a good idea for you to form the top of the handle so it is rounded. If the branch had simply fallen off the tree by itself, then the top will be very uneaven and crude. If you sawed it off yourself then it will be very straight and sharp-edged. In any case, it's best to round it off a bit. You can do this using sanding paper and if you're persistent enough then you can even make it into a complete hemisphere. I shaped the top of my handle by sanding the edges at an angle. Then I continued sanding it in circular motions to get it even more rounded and to remove and rough transitions on it (have a look at picture 8).

Picture 8: a rounded broom handle top

(3.5 Even out the tops of your bristle branches

I inserted this here as an intermediate step because I did the wrong thing and decided to saw off the tips of these branches when they were already tied in little bundles. This turned out to be a much harder way of doing things. So my recommendation is that you take you birch branches (or any other branches that you have chosen for your bristles) and straighten off their tips one by one using shears or a small hand saw. The tips of these branches should look something like the one in this picture when you're done.)

4. Split up the birch branches

It isn't necessary to take the bark off or sand the birch branches or the willow branches (that is any branches you plan to use for the bristles and as "rope"). All you need to do with these branches is organize them. Let us focus on your bristles for now. What I first did was divide my birch branches into three groups according to size: large, middle-sized and small branches. This is how I got the three piles you see in picture no. 9.

The next step is to further divide these 3 piles into 3 smaller piles. You should now have 9 piles altogether. We will later tie each of these piles separately using rope/willow branches. But let me first explain why. The reason for this is friction. If you were to simply tie all of these branches to the handle in one go, then the chances of the branches falling out would be bigger as there would be less friction. If you tie the branches into several smaller bundles, and then tie all these bundles into one big bundle around the handle (as we will do), then the friction is much bigger.

Picture 9: birch branches divided into three
groups according to size 

Picture 10: one bundle of birch branches
divided into 3 smaller piles

5. Tie each bundle

The next step is to tie each of the nine piles as shown in pictures 11, 12 and 13. In order to tie each pile, I recommend you follow these steps. I call this technique the "snake". Feel free to follow the diagram below along with the instructions.

• Spirally wrap one willow branch around one bundle of birch branches a few times. (picture 11)
• Start making a knot by taking one end of the willow branch and pushing it under the spiral. (picture 12)
• Slowly pull on one end of the willow branch. This will tighten it around the bundle using friction. (picture 13)
• Continue wriggling the willow branch over the spiral in a snaky way so you get into the position shown in picture 12. Then push the branch beneath the spiral once more (as in picture 13), tighten it and repeat this until you run out of the willow branch.

Tip: when you start pushing the end of the willow branch beneath the spiral, feel free to let it come out the other side of the whole birch bundle. This way, you will add to the friction and tighten the bundle even more.

• When you come to the end of your willow branch, simply tuck the ends somewhere in the spiral or underneath another part of the branch (but the friction itself should be enough to keep the "snake" from unraveling).
• Cut off any excess material using your shears.

Picture 11: a willow branch spirally wrapped around the bundle
of birch branches

Picture 13: a tightened willow knot

Picture 12: the beginning of the willow knot

You should now have 9 neatly tied bundles as shown in picture no. 14.

Picture 14: tied bundles of birch branches

6. Tie the bundles to the broom handle

Arrange your nine bundles around the  handle (picture 15) and temporarily tie them all together using some rope. If you don't have any, then ask one of your flatmates to give you a hand. You now have one big bundle of birch branches.

Picture 15: birch bundles arranged around the handle

In order for you to tie this bundle around the handle, you can follow the same instructions that you followed when tying each of these bundles separately (step 5). The only difference in this procedure is that you don't have to spirally wrap the willow branch around the bundle several times. It's now enough to just wrap it around once (picture 16). After this, the instructions are the same as in step 5.

It's necessary to make a "knot" in two places; one almost at the top of the bundle and another slightly below the first knot (picture 18). I left about 30cm between my two "knots". 

Generally speaking, there are no rules as to how much of the handle has to be hidden among the birch branches and how much of it has to be left outside. This is up to you. I left this up to the broom itself and left the widest part of the handle inside so the bundle can't slip off.

Picture 16: a willow branch wrapped around
the birch bundle

Picture 17: the willow knot

Picture 18: two "knots" on the broom

You can make several knots in one place as I did. My advice is that you somehow intertwine each willow branch you use for you knots with the previously made knot(s) in that place. This way, all the willow branches stay connected.

Once you've done this, your broom is done! :D You can now enjoy doing your rituals with it.

I hope that these instructions will be of some use to you and if anything is unclear, don't hesitate to post your questions in a comment, or ask them through the contact form.

Until next time. Yours,

Witch's Cat

How To Make a Crystal Ball Cushion

It is true that the crystal ball is a part of the witch stereotype and the black cushion on which this crystal sphere lies only adds to this image. But rarely do people ask themselves why the cushion is always black and made of velvet (or at least a similar material).

It is said for both velvet and the color black that they retain the energy and purity of the object that is placed in/on it. This is why almost all ritual tools in Wicca, Ceremonial Magic and other traditions are kept wrapped in velvet or in a velvet bag. The color black absorbs positivity and repels negativity and velvet is an extremely soft material and, as such, will not damage any object. In addition to this, it is not slippery, so the object will no easily slip out/across it. Therefore, there are both magical and practical reasons for using black velvet under these circumstances.

This is why black velvet is also the most commonly used material for making crystal ball cushions. But in this context, there is another practical reason for this use of the color black. Namely, crystal gazing is best performed at night with little or no light sources around (one candle is ideal). The glow of the crystal ball is best emphasized in the dark and there is also no chance of the light reflecting on/in the ball and thus tampering with the reading. The black pillow additionally helps here because it absorbs light (so it isn't reflected in the ball), but it also provides a dark background for the ball which makes it easier for you to concentrate on the ball itself.

This is why I also opted for black velvet when making a cushion for my selenite crystal ball. In this post, I will give you instructions on how to manually sew this cushion. It really isn't complicated and you won't need too much material or time. :)

Before you start making the cushion, I suggest you define what size you want it to be (it just has to be larger than the base of your crystal ball). I recommend you measure the diameter of your crystal ball and add a few extra centimeters extra on all the sides. This way, the cushion will look nicer and also be more practical because the extra space around the ball will stop it from rolling of the cushion.

You Will Need:

• a black, velvety material (the amount depends on the size of you crystal ball)
• textile chalk (for marking, or if you can't find this, use anything else that leaves a visible mark on the material but easily washes off afterwards)
• sharp scissors
• needle and a threat (black if your material is black)
• a ruler/measuring tape
• silicone fiber

This is what the small pillows I got with
my jewelry look like :)

Note: silicone fibers are, in my opinion, the best option for cushion fillings because they do not dwindle easily (this is especially important because other materials will easily flatten under the weight of the crystal ball and then the whole point of having a soft pillow for the ball is lost). You can buy this material in any haberdashery by the kilogram. Of course, this will bi too much for this small cushion so I recommend you go out and buy a ready-made cushion fill or a cheap cushion, rip it open and take out as much fiber as you need. I found two old little pillows in the house which I got with some jewelry and took the fiber out of them...so look around the house and see if you can find something useful.

You can always use cotton instead of these silicone fibers, but it will go flat very soon. You can possibly search for some sort of foam filling, but you will have to experiment with this on your own.

The Process:

1. Wash the material and let it dry.
2. In case your material has a different texture on its two faces (one velvety and the other "normal"), turn the material so that the velvety side is facing downwards and use the "normal" side for marking.
3. Cut two squares out of the material. Don't forget to measure their size according to your crystal ball (e.g. my cushion is 15x15cm because my crystal ball is 10cm in diameter). So take the material and using the textile chalk, draw the two squares onto the normal side of the material and then cut them out.

4. Sew the two squares together only along three sides keeping the velvety face inside (the stitching looks better if it isn't visible from the outside). You will now have a square bag ready for filling.
5. Turn the bad inside-out so that the velvety side is facing outside.

6. Take the filling of your choice (as I have already mentioned, I recommend silicone fibers which you can see in the picture below) and fill the bag. While filling, use your fingers to push the filling into the edges of the cushion and try to keep it evenly distributed. Occasionally hold the fourth (unsewn) side of the cushion with your hand to see how "fat" the cushion is and whether or not it needs more filling. When you have estimated that there is enough filling, sew up the fourth side of the cushion.

Note: steps 7 and 8 are not really necessary, bit they will help hold the ball in place so it doesn't roll off the cushion.

7. Using your textile chalk, mark four dots on both sides of your cushion. They should be equally distanced from the edges forming a small square on your cushion.
8. With a needle and threat, pass "through" one dot on one side of the cushion, pass through the filling and exit on the other side of the cushion on the same dot (e.g. enter through the upper left dot on the bottom side of the cushion and then through the upper left dot on the upper side). Go back through the same dot on the upper side, through the filling and exit on the same dot on the bottom side. Repeat this a few times and you will see the dot being sort of "sucked in". When you have estimated that it has been indented enough, simply finish sewing like you would with anything else (i.e. pass through one spot several times with your needle and thread to fix the thread in place). Repeat this for all four dots.

Your pillow should now look something like this:

I hope everything is clear and that these instructions will come in handy. :) If you have any questions regarding this post, feel free to leave them in the comments section.

Until next time. Yours,

Witch's Cat